Soaked in history, the Hasemite Kingdom of Jordan was a Middle East afterthought and comprises of vast swaths of lonely desert and a sprinkling of spectacular sites. It?s one of the most welcoming of the Arabic countries, safe and easy to travel in, and seldom overrun by tourists.

Amman is a typical Arabic city, chaotic and bustling in places, sometimes pious, but with interesting pockets to explore. Settlement here dates back 5000 years and there are several ancient Roman sites dotted about the city, including a restored Roman theatre, Odeon amphitheatre and Roman citadel. There are also several excellent museums in the city, preserving the country?s archaeological legacy. If history bores you, spend the late afternoon wandering the windy lanes of the old town and seek out the coffee shops where you can smoke shishas and play backgammon with the friendly locals.

A half-day?s drive south is the incredible city of Petra, one of the world?s most incredible ancient sites. Built in the 3rd century AD by wealthy Nabatean merchants, the entire city is cut out of the rocky valleys and canyons of this bizarre landscape. It?s entered through a mile long rock passage known as the ?siq? where you suddenly chance upon the gobsmacking fascia of the Treasury. There?s plenty to see in the valley, with caves, amphitheatres, citadels and ruins scattered about, so you hardly notice the crowds as you quietly contemplate this remarkable and unique site.

Jerash is the other important archeological site, just 50kms north of Amman. It is a beautifully preserved, and once very important Roman city, including the Temple of Zeus and Forum, the 5000-seater South Theatre, colonnaded street and enormous Temple of Artemis.

Another must-see in the Amman area is the remarkable Dead Sea. Taxis will happily take you there (30 mins) and remember your bathing suit, ?floating? in this heavily saline lake is bizarre, though a little uncomfortable if you have any cuts and abrasions. It?s the lowest point on the planet and nothing survives in this desolate but serenely beautiful depression.

Aqaba is a modest resort town on the Gulf of Aqaba and the only resort area in the country. It hardly competes with Eilat or Sharm el Shiek, but isn?t crowded and has some pleasant resorts where you can laze about in the lovely winter sun. About 40kms north of Aqaba is the remarkable desert landscape of Wadi Rum, where Lawrence of Arabia was based. It?s typified by massive butts dotted across the desert and a small, peaceful camp is located in one of the valleys. From here you can arrange camps in the deserts with Bedouins.